“All the introduced mammals in Hawai‘i are really hard on the native forest and our watersheds,” he says. His big-wave exploits have won him numerous accolades and awards, including the Billabong Ride of the Year Award in both 2015 and 2016. While he sometimes hunts pigs, sheep and goats, he mostly goes after deer these days. Despite this advancement, Dorian stresses the importance of understanding basic safety skills for all surfers, regardless of wave size. Moments later his board broke free of the water and Dorian went into a free fall, a bad turn of events that onlookers had every right to believe was about to end terribly. “When we get low on meat, I go hunting.”.In addition to supplementing the Dorian clan’s diet with lots of lean, wild protein, Dorian’s bow hunting also benefits the environment. When the board reconnected with the wave’s face, Dorian was still on it, regaining control and riding the wave to completion. With or without contest wins, he’s still regarded as one of the best big-wave riders in the world today.But he kept on surfing, and after he turned fifteen he began spending half of the school year on O‘ahu’s North Shore, during the big-wave season. “It’s so much safer now to surf big waves, and that’s enabled a lot more people to go surf big waves.”,Today there are many varieties of inflatable vests used by big-wave surfers, and it’s considered foolhardy if someone paddles out on a really big day without one. The waves are getting better and there’s still some daylight left. We use cookies to deliver a reliable and personalised Magicseaweed experience. “Can we go back out?” His dark brown eyes are wide open, as if he’s trying to will his father back into the waves on pure cuteness and stoke. But he also wants his son to gain confidence to paddle out without him. Despite his years of experience and sizable lung capacity, Dorian nearly blacked out before the wave finally let him go. But for Dorian, trophies aren’t the point. 490.7k Followers, 1,132 Following, 1,299 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Shane Dorian (@shanedorian) “I need bow hunting to keep me sane.” Some people surf after work to blow off steam, he says. The second release, the Shane Dorian, is crafted in collaboration with world renowned professional surfer, Shane Dorian. In smaller surf, one is never enough.

“You go down to the beach, and people are spending time with their kids, teaching them how to throw net [the traditional Hawaiian fishing method] and how to clean fish. Surfing career. Through a collaboration with Billabong and a Canadian company called Mustang Survival, which builds marine and aerospace safety suits, Dorian came up with a wetsuit equipped with a built-in air bladder and CO2 canisters. He is a proud product of Hawai‘i Island, and while he’s seen the world through surfing, he’s an inveterate Big Islander. The kids call him Uncle Shane or just Jackson’s dad.Dorian spent eleven years as a pro surfer on the World Championship Tour before retiring in 2003 to focus on riding big waves. The New Schoolers included the likes of Kelly Slater, still a close friend of Dorian.

“As far as surfing big waves, you’re crazy if you paddle out without knowing the absolute basics and having a plan in case something goes wrong.”.A steady stream of locals pat Dorian on the shoulder and shake his hand with friendly greetings.

“There’s nowhere like the Big Island, and I think that’s because of the people and the culture,” he says. Dorian began bow hunting when he and his wife moved into this house in an effort to keep the wild pigs, which would dig up anything the couple planted, in check. Now Dorian can hardly keep him out of the water.In extremely large surf, Dorian
 is often content with a single ride. He was devoted to skateboarding but he hardly cared about surfing.

The nightly routine will have to wait.If there’s a wave too big, Shane Dorian hasn’t found it.Story by Kyveli Diener. A nonprofit organization spun off from the contest holds fundraisers twice a year to benefit up-and-coming surf talent from Hawai‘i Island.“We’ve sent dozens of kids over to nationals in California,” Dorian says. “Anyone who surfs should be doing CPR courses and learning how to save people’s lives, because it doesn’t take big waves to kill somebody,” he says. “We don’t buy any red meat in my family, and we eat meat pretty consistently,” he says.

Shane Dorian's Slice of Home By Craig Murch on 31st March 2016 El Nino gifted the North Pacific a season that redefined big wave surfing and at the heart of it was Mr. Shane Dorian. “It’s so dangerous out there and the risks are so significant that if I get one really good wave, I’m good
 for the day,” he says. Dorian didn’t want to push his son to follow in his footsteps; he let him find his own way there. Dorian started out on a bodyboard alongside friend, and future bodyboarder champion, Mike Stewart. So he established a kids surfing contest at Banyans called the Shane Dorian Keiki Classic. Dorian began bow hunting when he and his wife moved into this house in an effort to keep the wild pigs, which would dig up anything the couple planted, in check. The wave pushed him deep into one of Mavericks’ notorious trenches, where an underwater waterfall effect can pin surfers to the bottom.